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Showing rats

2163 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Rowangate

it will be lovely to see you at shows Sarah, you don't have to be a member to show at NFRS shows, they are all open, so you could try some out for size :)

I'm judging in Meldreth on 14th November, which I don't think is too far from Leicestershire, not sure where you are[/quote]

I am in the centre of Leicester.I have downloaded the application for membership .Are there adult and baby classes and how far in advance of a show do you need to enter.Also are the show cages specific :?:I find it surprising that you don't need to be a member :? Why do people join?
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Hi Sarah

Kitten classes are for 7weeks-13 weeks inclusive and adults are 13 weeks and over. But in new varieties they are shown in the same class. Entries usually close the wednesday before the show. You can usually hire a show tank, you need to book when you put your entries in, and bring some substrate for the tank. NFRS ask for pale natural beddings like shavings or hemp, some other clubs allow things like card too. Kittens can also have some shredded paper bedding. You also need to put in a piece of apple or carrot. New show tanks cost £10 and can often be bought at shows if prebooked.

Only members can compete for the points cups, register champions, and have access to the club forum. And you get 6 issues of prorata a year too with all the articles and show reports as part of the membership. Surely that's a good reason to join :)
Hi Sarah

This is the link to the section on the nfrs site that describes the ideal type, and links to descriptions and pictures for each variety :) As a judge I like the rat to feel solid when I handle it, but not flabby (although a slightly overweight rat will often look in better condition at the end of a long show). Lightweight rats are a definite no.

Like marathon runners, a lot of does will be even better after a litter, some don't return to good condition or get too flabby, but I think a lot of that is down to diet.

As far as show prep goes, trim off the sharp points of the nails. The tails on pale varieties might need to be shampooed, or if you have one that is filthy (I had several yesterday in front of me where I could scrape the build up of dirt off with my fingernail - yuck), a toothbrush is good, or I sometimes use the green side of a sponge scourer (but not too hard). Pale varieties that get stains might need extra cleaning, or a quick ear wipe. Dry shampoo is pretty good at getting porphyrin stains off white rats and so is that diamond eye stuff that you clean dogs faces with, you can bath them but you need a few days for the coat to settle again and the ones that are determined to be skanky usually manage to undo the work of a bath in a couple of hours ;)

Numbers for a viable stud - hmm thats a tricky one. You can get away with less for a solid colour then a marked. Maybe about 12-15? Be interested to hear what Lisa and Lian have to say about that one :)


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