Pet Mice Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,254 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
quote

it will be lovely to see you at shows Sarah, you don't have to be a member to show at NFRS shows, they are all open, so you could try some out for size :)

I'm judging in Meldreth on 14th November, which I don't think is too far from Leicestershire, not sure where you are[/quote]

I am in the centre of Leicester.I have downloaded the application for membership .Are there adult and baby classes and how far in advance of a show do you need to enter.Also are the show cages specific :?:I find it surprising that you don't need to be a member :? Why do people join?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Hi Sarah

Kitten classes are for 7weeks-13 weeks inclusive and adults are 13 weeks and over. But in new varieties they are shown in the same class. Entries usually close the wednesday before the show. You can usually hire a show tank, you need to book when you put your entries in, and bring some substrate for the tank. NFRS ask for pale natural beddings like shavings or hemp, some other clubs allow things like card too. Kittens can also have some shredded paper bedding. You also need to put in a piece of apple or carrot. New show tanks cost £10 and can often be bought at shows if prebooked.

Only members can compete for the points cups, register champions, and have access to the club forum. And you get 6 issues of prorata a year too with all the articles and show reports as part of the membership. Surely that's a good reason to join :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,254 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
this was very useful thanks.I will be going ahead although if I have a litter of puppies :pray it will curtail showing before Christmas.Can anyone describe in a nutshell what the ideal show rat should be.Also are they shown after having a litter and how many are needed to be a viable stud :thx Do they require any show prep as in tail shampooing ....What is considered undesirable in rats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Hi Sarah

This is the link to the section on the nfrs site that describes the ideal type, and links to descriptions and pictures for each variety :) As a judge I like the rat to feel solid when I handle it, but not flabby (although a slightly overweight rat will often look in better condition at the end of a long show). Lightweight rats are a definite no.

http://www.nfrs.org/varieties.html

Like marathon runners, a lot of does will be even better after a litter, some don't return to good condition or get too flabby, but I think a lot of that is down to diet.

As far as show prep goes, trim off the sharp points of the nails. The tails on pale varieties might need to be shampooed, or if you have one that is filthy (I had several yesterday in front of me where I could scrape the build up of dirt off with my fingernail - yuck), a toothbrush is good, or I sometimes use the green side of a sponge scourer (but not too hard). Pale varieties that get stains might need extra cleaning, or a quick ear wipe. Dry shampoo is pretty good at getting porphyrin stains off white rats and so is that diamond eye stuff that you clean dogs faces with, you can bath them but you need a few days for the coat to settle again and the ones that are determined to be skanky usually manage to undo the work of a bath in a couple of hours ;)

Numbers for a viable stud - hmm thats a tricky one. You can get away with less for a solid colour then a marked. Maybe about 12-15? Be interested to hear what Lisa and Lian have to say about that one :)

HTH

Julie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
it depends on how many oldies you keep, I try to rehome ex-breeding does, but bucks end up hanging about forever. I've currently got 25 rats, but thats post two bouts of SDA. I usually have around 40 rats but I breed more than one variety. 15 rats for one self colour would be about right I would say.

I started with mice many many moons ago and thought that I would have to keep as many cages of rats as I did boxes of mice, but they are not the same, you also have much longer timescales for breeding which I am still getting used to in reverse with the mice again.

I use a soapy flannel to clean rats tails, I find green fairy liquid usually does the job :)

As a judge I am most grateful if rats nails are clipped. This is not an easy job for most and you will usually find someone wandering round at a show holding a rat and a pair of babies nail clippers with a pleading look on their face :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,254 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thank you all for the info.I have around a 100 mice boxes(to many varieties)and definately don't want to end up in the same boat with rats.I will just stick with the one sort.No problems cutting the toe nails,I kept all my hairless rats clipped and it's a doddle compared to doing the dogs and worse still the parrots.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Hi Sarah
The nfrs website has loads of info on showing. With regards to how many rats you need to keep for a stud that depends on the variety. Even though I have three marked varieties - striped roan, variegated and hooded. I only have about 50 rats. When you decide what variety you want to breed then as has already been said speak to either myself, Lisa or Julie and we can point you in the right direction for getting your ratties, and all of us are always happy to answer questions.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top